Tombouctou

Dernières nouvelles

samedi 2 février 2013

Par Bibi

Les phares illuminaient la route de sable rouge. La 4X4 filait dans la nuit. Nous étions douze dans la Range Rover blanche. La chaleur était suffocante et le bébé hurlait comme un chat que l’on tente d’égorger. La mère avait beau soulever sa large robe noire pour lui offrir le sein, les cris perçaient le silence et affûtaient les nerfs des passagers silencieux. J’étais collée à la fenêtre, coincée entre cette jeune fille rencontrée à Douanza, ville où les cars s’arrêtent parfois et l’on peut y saisir une occasion de partir vers la mystérieuse cité de Tombouctou. Elle attendait depuis deux jours. Des mouchoirs traînaient sur la table du restaurant. - Je n’arrête pas de pleurer depuis deux jours, me dit-elle. - Tu vas rejoindre ta famille ? - Oui, je ne les ai pas vus depuis un an - Combien de temps tu vas passer là-bas ? - Un mois, répond t-elle. - Tu vas te marier ? Elle me lance un regard surpris - Non, j’ai mon fiancé là-bas Et elle s’est tue. Je suis allée chercher de la viande grillée. J’ai déposé les quelques morceaux de mouton et le bout de pain sur le sol - Na douminiké (mangeons), lui ai-je dis Elle s’est lavé la main et a pris quelques morceaux, silencieusement. - Tu es à l’école ? - Oui - Qu’est-ce que tu étudies ? - Le secrétariat - Tu allais voir ta famille pour la fête du Prophète, le Malhoud ? - Oui Elle a arrêté de manger. Je lui ai offert de l’eau. Elle a refusé. - Toubabou jgye (l’eau des blancs) Elle a souri. Nous n’avons plus parlé. Une autre jeune fille est venue me chercher - Ma sœur téléphone pour toi, me dit une jeune fille Je ne sais pas ce qui m’a étonné le plus. Le fait qu’elle m’appelle ma sœur ou que d’aussi loin, je reçoive un appel. - Salut Ramata, c’est Seydou. Je voulais savoir si tu étais bien, si tu trouvais du transport. - Bon, ça va. Je suis avec une jeune fille qui attend depuis deux jours, je ne sais pas trop. J’espère que ça ira. Rencontré à Bamako, Seydou est un guide Dogon qui a bien voulu me faire découvrir son coin de pays, le Pays Dogon avant que je ne parte en direction de Tombouctou. J’ai habité dans sa famille, dormi sur le toit de sa maison sous les regards des étoiles et de la lune.

Sur l’entrefaite, le garçon qui m’avait repéré à mon arrivée, cogne à la cabine. Je raccroche. Une autre Range Rover venait d’arriver. Les bagages et d’énormes cruches jaunes débordent du toit. Un jeune blanc très mince en pantalons kaki et chemise bleue en sort. Je me dirige vers lui pour lui demander s’il y a de la place. - Non, nous sommes complets. C’est mal connaître la capacité des Africains à maximiser l’espace. La jeune fille se lève et je la précède. Pour 10 000 francs CFA, je me glisse tant bien que mal aux côtés des six passagers qui garnissent le coffre arrière de la 4x4 blanche. Les six autres étant confortablement assis sur la banquette avant et arrière. Nous sommes tellement entassés que je dois me lever pour que le conducteur parvienne à fermer la porte arrière. - Willie (lève-toi) Et la porte se referme. Les gamins avec qui j’avais un peu blagué me font de larges sourires et me souhaitent bonne route. Il fait encore jour et de la fenêtre, je peux observer le paysage, les énormes falaises du Pays Dogon, quelques baobabs. Puis doucement la nuit s’installe avec le silence dans la cabine. Je sens le poids de la proximité. Les pieds du jeune Touareg enturbanné qui me fixe de son regard noir pèsent sur les miens. La sensation m’agace et je soulève mes orteils pour lui manifester mon inconfort. Il rouspète dans sa langue à la jeune fille avec qui je parlais et elle lui répond je ne sais quoi qui clos la discussion. La 4x4 file à une allure impressionnante comme si elle était prise en chasse. La route est mauvaise et la portière cogne mon épaule endolorie. J’ai l’impression de me diriger en enfer. Le véhicule tangue et se prend dans les amoncellements de sable. On s’arrête parfois pour vérifier l’état de la voiture sans laisser sortir les passagers. L’eau glisse sur ma colonne vertébrale, sur mes bras et je m’éponge le front de mon large foulard.

Le véhicule s'arrête. Trempée par la sueur, je sors du véhicule. On allonge une natte sur le sol et la jeune fille s’y affale. Complètement déshydratée, je vais nous chercher des boissons. Un garçon guide mes pas dans l’obscurité vers le petit magasin et je reviens avec des boissons. J'en tends une à la jeune fille et je m’assieds sur la natte. La mère de la 4x4 me dépose son bébé dans les bras sans mot dire et s’allonge à son tour. Une lampe à l’huile éclaire la petite hutte qui sert de restaurant. Les hommes boivent le thé, une douce musique meuble le silence. Nous sommes dans un hameau à je ne sais quelle distance de Tombouctou. Le chauffeur fait signe aux passagers et tous se lèvent péniblement pour rejoindre leurs sièges. Il est près de minuit et je pose ma tête sur mes genoux pour essayer de trouver un peu de sommeil.

La 4x4 s'arrête de nouveau pendant de longues minutes et le chauffeur sort ses outils pour réparer le pneu arrière. La route est de plus en plus mauvaise et la 4x4 continue de tanguer et de se prendre dans les bancs de sable. Le chauffeur est expérimenté et nous ne restons bloqués jamais longtemps. Soudainement, nous nous arrêtons sans raison apparente. Le chauffeur sort une tente et s’y couche. Je regarde la jeune fille qui semble sourire malgré l’obscurité. - Nous sommes arrivés. Je ne comprends pas. Il fait nuit noire, je ne vois rien. Je suis épuisée. J’allonge mon foulard sur le sol et je m’endors. Le vent du Sahara me réveille et me bat le visage. J’admire les premières lueurs du jour sur le fleuve Niger. Des pirogues voguent paisiblement. Une ville se dessine au loin, telle une oasis. - C’est Tombouctou Je n’y crois pas. Tout est blanc, couvert de sable fin. Je vais au fleuve m’asperger le visage d’eau. Ce n’est pas une illusion, j’y suis. Je suis à Tombouctou. J’ai traversé une partie du désert en passant qu’il s’agissait d’une descente aux enfers et voilà mes yeux récompensés. Le traversier accoste et la 4 x4 y monte. Je suis sur le pont, excitée, émue.

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